• Abandoned
    An abandoned British research station on Stonington Island in Antarctica
  • Harbour Dusk
    The daily buzz on Sydney Harbour is always a joy to experience.
  • Mona Vale
    View from the headland to Mona Vale Pool.
  • Antarctic Night
    Midnight in Antarctica and mirror-like reflections.
  • Neko Harbour
    Sunrise over Neko Harbour in Antarctica.

Archive for the ‘Geek Talk’ Category

Nikon D7000 or D300s

Monday, May 30th, 2011

Both Back 600x345 Nikon D7000 or D300sAfter my Nikon D300 had broken on holidays, I decided to buy a D300s as a replacement.
But recently the brand new D7000 was released and I received many emails asking me why I decided for the older D300s and did not buy the slightly cheaper and newer D7000.

Well it was a very close race for me between the D7000 and the D300s.
My camera broke at an unfortunate time, because later this year the D400 should become available (D7000 sensor in a pro-DX body), and I am planning to buy it. However since I needed a camera right now, I had the choice between the D7000 and D300s.

The problem with the entry-level bodies like the D7000 is, that you need different batteries, different cards and other connectors, like a different remote release. Frankly I did not see the point in buying all those additional things for a camera that I will definitely sell again when the D400 gets released this year.

So whilst I was very tempted to buy the 16MP D7000 with superior image quality, I stuck with the D300s. It allows me to keep on using my batteries, CF Cards, remote release and camera plate.

Essentially, for me the more expensive D300s is the better camera. However, the D7000 is no clunker, it’s 80% of what the D300s is. Now, if that was all there was to the story, the D300s would be the better camera, but there’s a lot more.
On the spec sheet, the D7000 equals or betters the $500 more expensive D300s in areas like high ISO performance, resolution (more mega pixels), video capability, AF capabilities (those extra 12 points on the D300s probably don’t matter much), frame rate (D7000 can go 6fps in 14 bit while the D300s can only do 2.5 in 14 bit), AF microadjust, and a built-in intervalometer.
Looking at the complete package, there’s no reason not to buy the D7000 unless you are like me and not a fan of the entry-level design (esp. when you are used to a pro body) as well as the issues I mentioned above. So you must decide if you want to get the essentially 3 ½ year old D300s or if you can live with the few shortcomings, buy the latest and greatest by buying the D7000.

I can hardly wait for the D400 to get released. But for the time being I have to bite the bullet and shoot with a camera that is not at the top of the DX line-up anymore.

D300s or D700 for landscape photography

Friday, May 20th, 2011

Well a few days ago I was wondering whether I should replace my broken D300 by upgrading to a D700 and therefore going full-frame.

I have now made my decision. I will stick to the D300, or what is the newer model – the D300s.
It’s basically a D300 with a few minor bells and whistles (HD movie, 2nd card slot, artificial horizon and silent shooting mode).

I simply realised that all those super wide angles for full-frame can’t take filters, and therefore are completely uninteresting to me. Aside from many disadvantages IMO of a full frame sensor over a cropped sensor (see attached image), there is a larger choice of wide and super wide-angle lenses for cropped sensors and almost all of them can take filters (esp. at the super WA end of things).

Screen shot 2011 05 20 at 3.39 D300s or D700 for landscape photography

As you can see, the issues are mostly related to the corners of the image. And since a full frame sensor is larger than a cropped sensor, you hardly have the above mentioned issues on a DX sensor because it does not cover the corners of the image.
Also lenses and bodies are much cheaper for cropped sensors and it would have been expensive for me to upgrade those lenses, for virtually no apparent difference in image quality.
Of course I understand why some ppl upgrade due to the obvious better ISO capabilities, but personally I do not care about high ISO settings as 99% of the time I shoot at ISO 200 or less.

So I stick to cropped-frame and looking less professional on location, but I can live with that :)

Use your Ipad as extended display

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

airdispaly LR 600x404 Use your Ipad as extended display

I usually don’t write much about gadgets such as the Ipad, but this feature I just discovered is too cool.If you have a Mac there is an app which allows you to to share your screen on the ipad. Check it out for yourself.

In-camera sRGB or Adobe RGB?

Friday, April 9th, 2010

adobe rgb vs srgbI noticed something interesting the other day and wanted to share it with all of you.

Many of the modern SLR’s give you the choice of shooting in-camera sRGB or Adobe RGB – which one would I use?
Well it depends if you shoot raw or jpeg.
If you shoot jpeg only (god forbid :) ), I highly recommend you set your camera to Adobe RGB. Its color space is a lot larger compared to sRGB (image to the left) and you can always convert your image back to sRGB later (e.g. when you want to post it on the net). So why not get the most out of your pixels?
Which brings me to the second point:
Why shoot jpeg at all? I know it’s an old discussion and I won’t go into the merits of shooting raw, however since you are reading this, you are obviously interested in retaining the largest amount of image information your camera can handle. So rather than simply shooting jpeg in Adobe RGB color space, you may as well shoot RAW.

Now here is where it gets interesting for the RAW shooters: I bet some of you were wondering whether to set the camera to sRGB or Adobe RGB?
If your answer is: It does not matter, shooting RAW format allows me to change the color space after the fact (i.e. in your raw processor) anyway. My answer is: Not exactly.

There is one merit to setting your camera to one of the two color spaces and it is the one that you would have suspected least: sRGB.
Here is the reason: Our cameras have a neat little feature called highlight warning. I prefer calling it blinkies (coined by Moose Peterson). It shows you on your display when and where a channel has blown out.
When you set your camera to sRGB color space those highlight warnings will be more sensitive to the blown out colorful highlights.
So since it does not make a difference in post, which color space you set in-camera (when shooting RAW), next time you play around with your camera, set it to sRGB and take a look at those blinkies. Amazing hey?

Painting with light at its best

Thursday, March 11th, 2010

It was about time I got around to processing the following shot. It’s been in my database for several months and on my mind for just as long, so one quiet evening I got to work. Layer-blending 13 different exposures takes time. Esp. when you only use little details from every image.

The whole shoot took about 2 hours, just to take one single image. It’s not like taking pictures on mobile phones where you can do it over and over again. If you don’t like the composition, that’s too bad because there is only one chance. Once you have decided on a location, angle, lens,… there is no changing. No going back. It’s what it is.

Every lighting technique you see in this image has been captured in a separate exposure with the help of either Brent or Gavin.

The image is called ghost. The ghost (being me) to the right of the image – trapped in some psychedelic prison made of light.
Hope you like it!

ghost 600x416 Painting with light at its best